Speed may coats river island be one of the first things to ditch. "Enjoyment and rest are increasingly becoming political acts against the mechanism of current systems," says Friend. "In the past decade, leisure has become entangled with guilt, as the fetishisation of business has driven an expectation that even free time should be spent refining ourselves physically and intellectually. But with isolation and solitude rapidly becoming the new normal, rest becomes an easy, enjoyable practice of resistance to current systems." Absolutely, says Bridget Luff, movement and meditation guide. "Slowing down allows us perspective  and it is the antithesis of what western society dictates."

While cottagecore might have increased on social-media platforms, it has a more rooted sibling in homesteading, a lifestyle based on self-sufficiency and subsistence agriculture. The concept coats and jackets saw a resurgence in the 1960s and 70s but subsequently went below the radar  only to re-emerge in recent years, with hipster undertones, as proponents advocated adapting renewable energy technologies and growing heirloom vegetables, even if they didn't necessarily live asda coats in rural locations.

Moss herself was simply continuing a tradition among hip cultural influencers.  In the 1970s, Yves Saint Laurent sent models down the runway in rehashes of his mother s  40s evening gowns; Bryan Ferry and Roxy Music suited up in Humphrey Bogart drag and retro GI gear, and kids recreated those looks with flea-market finds, expert Alex Fury wrote in the Financial Times.  Then again, so did people like Paloma Picasso and Loulou de la Falaise, buying vintage clothes for authenticity and girls school coats validity  the real deal, not a pale imitation. Fast forward to the 2020s and vintage is back again    and this time, arguably, it s back for good.

This added element of craft and regeneration, of upcycling and repair offers another contemporary dimension to Vintage 2.0. Central Saint Martins student Boy Kloves, who has already collaborated with Converse and dressed the band Haim for V Magazine (and whose way with Hawaiian shirts and vintage napkins will take your breath away) is one of a cohort of designers wholly open to its possibilities.  There s a rise in young people looking at things that already exist, that are beautiful, that are usable, not only to take inspiration from  but also to use as fabrics for creation, he says. 

 Global warming is a crisis facing our generation; it s a new thing you have to consider as a young person, matalan coats  he continues.  Designers and makers are very much problem solvers in their own right. Vintage and upcycling as a method are ways to address the problem in interesting ways. It is this embedding  of concern for the climate crisis, of the perception of vintage as the logical retort to fast fashion and of upcycling and repair as alternative forms of making  that is the surest sign that vintage has real traction. A generation that has everything to gain and nothing to lose by  embracing sustainable practices is waking up, and they mean business.